A Taste of Gotham at London’s First DC Comics Inspired Restaurant
From the moment you enter the double doors to Park Row, London’s first DC-inspired restaurant, the immersion begins in a lobby space decked out as a cosy, dimly lit library. Ushered through a secret entrance behind a bookshelf, we made our way down a darkened staircase reminiscent of a descent into the Batcave – complete with dramatic theme music from The Dark Knight – ready for a dining experience inspired by the Caped Crusader. Yep, London has a Batman restaurant.
With so many restaurants in Soho to choose from, something a bit special is sometimes needed to grab attention. I first heard about Park Row when it opened in August last year, and as a fan of comic book movies and superheroes, I was keen to give it a try.
Park Row is home to multiple themed rooms, including Pennyworth’s lounge, the Rogue’s Gallery and Old Gotham City (a secret speakeasy). We took our seats in Iceberg Lounge, the Penguin’s lair-inspired main dining hall. The large, open art-deco underground space lends itself well to a sense of grandeur, with complimentary décor including plush couch seating, gold trims and velvet bar stools.
The dishes on Park Row’s a la carte menu range from steak and halibut to gnocchi and Greek salad. If you feel like maximizing the Batman vibes, there are a selection of ‘spectacle’ dishes – such as the Scales of Justice, where Scottish scallops and ceviche are served on a giant pair of weighing scales. Prices for the a la carte range from £18 – £85, offering a choice for differing budgets and tastes.
If your budget doesn’t stretch to the coffers of Wayne Manor, Park Row also offers a set menu – one course for £20, two for £30 and three for £35, which also includes a beer or cocktail. Deciding to keep our spending low, we did have to ask for this menu as it wasn’t handed over automatically.
Unfortunately, the bread that we initially ordered didn’t arrive, but our starters came out quickly. The steak tartare was a hearty portion, decently cooked and served with pickled walnut, nasturtium and sourdough crisps. The flavours worked well together, and while it might not be a dish that sets the culinary world on fire, it was enjoyable enough.
The Sea Bream I chose for my main proved to be particularly enjoyable, with a deliciously crisp skin encasing soft, flakey fish. I’m not normally the biggest artichoke fan, but the Jerusalem artichoke side actually really impressed me – served in a style reminiscent of potato salad, which absolutely worked. The beef cheek was also a highlight, tender and juicy – however the pureed parsnip had a quite overpowering taste which detracted from the dish overall.
Park Row offers a sense of immersion into the world of Gotham society, without being too obvious or cheesy. It’s more about the small touches and subtle ‘easter eggs’ – with portraits of Gotham residents and locations on the wall, neon quotes in the Harley Quinn-inspired womens’ toilet, and Joker cards as cloakroom tokens. Think less cartoon strip Batman, more a taste of Gotham decadence.
While the food may not hit fine dining heights, the overall experience is an immersive dip into the world of the Dark Knight – with the set menu being a more affordable way to enjoy the venue on more of a budget. If you’re a fan of the franchise, Park Row’s definitely worth a visit.
