How To Spend 2 Days in Phong Nha: Your Complete Travel Guide

Milly is on a swing, swinging out over a river and forest view at Monkey Bridge Farm in Phong Nha

Spending two days in Phong Nha was a highlight of my Vietnam backpacking itinerary. With this guide, I hope it will be one of yours too!

Despite being an old-school backpacker favourite and a popular tourist destination, Phong Nha felt quiet when we visited in November. Speaking to locals, the town’s tourism industry suffered a massive blow during the COVID pandemic, and since then, the town hasn’t seen close to it’s pre-pandemic peak traffic.

With the growing popularity of North Vietnam destinations like Ninh Binh and Ha Giang, it seems that some of the old backpacker staples are seeing less travellers pass through.

My partner had visited on a previous trip ten years ago, and pretty much demanded we add it to our Vietnam trip itinerary. I’m absolutely glad he did, because Phong Nha is a playground of nature and adventure.

The area surrounding the town, Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park, offers awe-inspiring landscapes and unspoilt Vietnamese countryside. The town’s compact size offers a welcome retreat from the overwhelming buzz of Vietnam’s big cities.

If you’re planning a visit to Phong Nha, this travel guide covers the best things to do, where to stay and how to get there.

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Phong Nha Essentials

Get there: via sleeper bus, or find flights to Dong Hoi
Stay: Central Backpackers Hostel or Phong Nha Farmstay
Tour: Visit three caves and Phong Nha town on a 2 day overnight tour from Dong Hoi
Eat: Bamboo Chopsticks, Green Point Cafe, Phong Nha Vegan

How many days should you spend in Phong Nha?

I’d recommend a minimum of two days in Phong Nha. We actually spent three days and four nights there, with two days set aside for activities and one for relaxing by the pool.

During your two days, you’ll be able to visit multiple caves, explore some of the countryside, and eat and drink at local restaurants. You’ll also have time to check out the nearby village of Hưng Trạch, home to the Monkey Bridge, Duck Stop and Pub With Cold Beer.

The best things to do in Phong Nha

From exploring millenia-old cave systems and striking natural landscapes to riding a bike across a ‘monkey’ bridge, check out the best things to do in Phong Nha:

Explore Paradise Cave

Paradise Cave is the perfect introduction to Phong Nha’s caves, and one of the area’s most famous. You can visit independently without a tour – the entrance is around 40 minutes’ drive from the centre of Phong Nha.

Once you arrive, you can walk or take a buggy ride to the cave entrance, then it’s an uphill hike 200m up the mountain. We chose to take the longer, slope route rather than the hundreds of steps, with views of the forest below keeping us going. It was a little tiring in the heat, which slowed us down, but not an especially tough walk.

At the entrance, we descended the stairs into the cave, and followed the boardwalk through the first kilometre. It’s a truly stunning sight, with intricate rock formations and dangling stalagmites, all millions of years old. The whole cave system stretches for 31km, and was only discovered in 2005.

Opening Times: 7am-5pm
Admission Fee: 250,000 VND (+30,000 VND for the buggy ride and 5,000 VND for parking)

Read my full guide to visiting Paradise Cave, including the best tour suggestions and self-guided visit tips.

Zipline to Dark Cave

One of the most popular attractions in Phong Nha with young travellers, Dark Cave mixes adrenaline, water activities and exploration.

To enter the cave, you ride a 400m zip line along the river. Inside, the cave has no artificial lighting inside, so you’ll make your way through with head torches. The passageway narrows until you find yourself squelching through mud. The mud here is completely buoyant, and you can float in it, like a literal mud bath.

After you exit the cave, you can wash off the mud in the river and enjoy kakayking, swimming and even tackle the over-water obstacle course.

Opening Times: 8am-6pm
Admission Fee: The full access pass costs 450,000 VND
and includes all activities.


Take a boat to Phong Nha Cave

Completing the trio of Phong Nha’s most popular caves, Phong Nha Cave is accessed via boat. The tour start point is at the end of Phong Nha town, within easy walking distance of central hotels and hostels.

In one of the world’s longest river caves, your boat ride will take you through massive chambers, past intricate stalactites, and impressive rock formations. Inside, you can explore the large dry cave on foot.

Opening Times: 8am-6pm
Admission Fee: The entrance ticket costs 150,000 VND. The boat ride costs 550k per boat – this can be split between up to 12 people.

Budget Travel Tip: If you’re visiting independently as a solo or small group, wait for other groups and join together for a cheaper ride.

Multi-cave tours in Phong Nha

The best way to visit multiple caves around Phong Nha in one day without your own transport is to book a guided tour:
Paradise Cave & Dark Cave – includes lunch at a local restaurant, all entry fees & caving equipment.
Paradise Cave & Phong Nha Cave – includes lunch and an additional visit to the Botanic Garden.
Phong Nha Cave & Dark Cave – includes lunch, entry fees & equipment.

The Phong Nha area is also home to other caves, including Hang En, Elephant Cave and Son Doong. These caves can only be visited on a guided tour, which involve some strenuous hiking and caving elements. You can book these tours with Oxalis Adventure or Jungle Boss – the Elephant Cave Tour is one of the most popular tours!

Hike in the Botanical Garden

Phong Nha’s Botanical Garden isn’t the kind you’d expect in the West – instead, you’ll find a natural area with walking trails and a waterfall. The tropical forest is perfect for self-guided jungle trekking, with easily marked paths and abundant plant life.

The shortest, easiest route takes 25-40 minutes, and the longest route is around 3 hours.

Opening Times: 7.30am-4pm
Admission Fee: 40,000 VND


Learn the story of Eight Ladies Cave

This one isn’t a cave you can enter, but a shrine to a sad tale from Vietnamese military history. It’s a somber and moving spot, with much spiritual importance for local people.

In 1972, eight young Vietnamese women were trapped while sheltering in a cave when the entrance was destroyed by US bombs. Despite rescue efforts, the women starved to death. The cave entrance is now a monument to the eight women, along with five soldiers who also died in the rescue attempt.

Kayak on the Chay River

We hadn’t heard this activity mentioned much when we were researching things to do in Phong Nha, but it was honestly one of the highlights of our visit.

We took a ride over to Chày Lập Riverside, a small dock offering independent kayak rentals and kayak tours on the Chày River. Taking to the water on our two-person kayak, we got to experience the Phong Nha countryside from a unique, relaxed perspective.

Aside from the odd local on the shore waving hello, we pretty much had the river to ourselves as we paddled by fields, villages and clusters of trees. We actually made it all the way to the Phong Nha Cave entrance – although you can’t kayak inside independently (as we learnt from the angry steward shouting at us from the shore).

If you do want to visit the cave by kayak, you can join a 4.5km Phong Nga Cave Expedition.

The next three attractions are close together in Hưng Trạch village to the east of Phong Nha town, and can be visited in one afternoon:

Have fun at Monkey Bridge Farm

As soon as we’d parked our scooter at Cuong Rung Farm, we were greeted enthusiastically by the owner Mr. Cuong. Turning his family farm into a tourist attraction, visitors can take part in various adventurous activities and enjoy spectacular views over the river and forest.

There are two main activities here: the Monkey Bridge and the Crazy Swing. I chose the latter, and Ashley chose the former. Because he’s braver than me.

The ‘Monkey Bridge’ is a narrow wooden plank stretched across a man-made pond, and the name of the game is to ride a bike across the bridge. Unfortunately, he didn’t quite make it, but it was loads of fun to try (and for me, to watch). Safety equipment is provided, and Mr Cuong gives you some tips before you start – and plenty of encouragement!

If, like me, you’re not great on two wheels, you can choose to take a ride on the Crazy Swing. I took one step, and swung out towards the drop ahead of me, flying out over the river below. It’s a great adrenaline rush, and a fantastic photo op!

Opening Hours: 9am-6pm
Admission Fee: 120,000 VND for three attempts at the Monkey Bridge, or one swing. If you just want to watch or enjoy the views with a drink, you’ll need to pay 50,000 VND, which includes one drink.

Become a duck leader at The Duck Stop

A TikTok favourite, at the Duck Stop you can be a designated ‘duck leader’! We didn’t do this one, as I’m actually scared of ducks (honestly), but you can meet and feed the flock, and even have a ‘duck massage’.

Opening Times: 8.30am-6pm
Admission Fee: 100,000 VND – includes a drink and pancakes


Cool down at The Pub With Cold Beer

A classic on the Phong Nha backpacker trail, legend has it that this spot got its name from an Australian backpacker in the 2000s. At the time, cold beer was hard to find on the route between Hanoi and Da Nang, but this spot provided thirsty travellers with the good stuff.

Over time, the original shack has developed into an open-air bar, with a stunning view over the surrounding countryside. There’s even a pool with inflatables, so it’s a great place to cool off on a hot day – and enjoy an ice cold beer, of course!

We actually visited twice during our two days in Phong Nha, and it was really quiet when we went. On our second visit, a group of local pre-teen girls were fascinated by my pink hair, and we spent most of our time with our eyes glued to the adorable puppies running around the terrace.


Phong Nha Travel Guide

How to get to Phong Nha

By air

The nearest airport to Phong Nha is Dong Hoi Airport, which is around 40 minutes’ drive from Phong Nha. A local bus service runs hourly from the main road outside Dong Hoi airport, or you can take a taxi for around 500,000 VND.

By train

The nearest train station to Phong Nha is Dong Hoi Train Station. The local bus service to Phong Nha departs from Nam Ly Bus Station, around 1.5km from the train station, or you can get there via taxi.

By bus

Sleeper buses are a popular and low-cost way of getting to Phong Nha. We took a sleeper bus from Hanoi to Phong Nha, which took 8 hours and cost around £20 each. You can also pick up a bus from Hue (from 4hrs) or Hoi An (from 8hrs).

Read my ultimate guide to surviving a Vietnam sleeper bus!

By scooter

If you’re a confident rider, you might want to consider getting to Phong Nha on a motorbike/scooter. Its a 1-2 hour drive from Dong Hoi, or 4-5 hours from Hue.

If you don’t have experience or the confidence to ride, you can enjoy the countryside views from the back of a bike on an Easyrider Tour from Hue to Phong Nha!

Getting around Phong Nha

Although Phong Nha is a small town, many of its best attractions are outside the town centre. Taxi services in town are limited, so you’ll need to hire a scooter, organise a private driver or join a tour.

We hired a scooter from our hostel for 150,000 VND per day, and it was one of my favourite riding experiences of the trip. The views on the road were unreal, and we could take everything at our own pace.

Unlike some of Vietnam’s major cities, the traffic in Phong Nha is much less intimidating, but some of the surrounding roads can be a little tricky in places. If you’re riding a scooter in Phong Nha, take it slow, keep alert, and always wear your helmet! Stick to the smaller, local roads as much as possible to avoid large buses and trucks.

General tips for visiting Phong Nha

  • If you’re travelling solo, join up with others from your hostel for group discounts on activities (Central Backpackers has a board where people can add their names to group trips)
  • Many vendors in Phong Nha take card, but some are cash-only, especially smaller shops and tour operators. There are two ATMs on the main street in Phong Nha.
  • For groceries and medical needs, there are a few small convenience stores and two pharmacies on the main street.
  • Make sure you have sturdy footwear if you plan on hiking in Phong Nha.
  • For water activities, make sure you pack swimwear and towels – beach shoes are also a good idea.

Where to stay in Phong Nha

One of the most popular places to stay in Phong Nha is Central Backpackers, the town’s main hostel and hub for travellers from around the world. The hostel has a small swimming pool, lively bar with a daily free beer happy hour and a 24 hour front desk – great if you’re arriving late on a sleeper bus. We booked a private room here for around £20 per night.

For a more relaxed stay outside of town, Phong Nha Farmstay is a small boutique resort with swimming pools, evening entertainment, a restaurant and free bike and kayak hire.


Where to eat in Phong Nha

Bamboo Chopsticks

Our favourite dinner spot in Phong Nha – so good, we went twice! Delicious Vietnamese and regional specialty dishes, including tofu in tomato sauce and Phong Nha Volcano stuffed tomatoes. They also serve Western food, and we had the garlic bread as a starter on both visits!

Green Point Cafe & Restaurant

My absolute top recommendation for breakfast and brunch in Phong Nha!

I tried their spin on avocado toast, which was served on a muffin, with a poached egg. Weird, but it worked.

They also serve one of the best full English breakfasts my partner had in the whole of our Asia trip. Sometimes, you’ve gotta embrace the home comforts a bit, and Green Point is the perfect place to do it.

Tree House Cafe & Restaurant

Friendly and relaxed cafe close to Central Backpackers hostel, it’s perfect for a laid back brunch or casual lunch. I had their Breakfast Smoothie Bowl, which was packed with goodness from banana, mango, pineapple and granola.

Phong Nha Vegan

The perfect spot for vegan food in Phong Nha, with a beautiful river view! Their milkshakes are to die for, and you can choose from vegan ‘pork’, tofu and vegetable dishes.

Summary: Is Phong Nha worth visiting?

Absolutely. In fact, it was one of my favourite places on our Vietnam itinerary. I loved exploring Paradise Cave and having a blast at the Monkey Bridge. However, my favourite thing of all was exploring the landscapes on our scooter.

Phong Nha National Park is absolutely stunning, and whizzing past lush fields, majestic mountains and thick forests with the wind in my hair was an unforgettable experience.

If you’re looking for a relaxing getaway from the noise and bustle of Vietnam’s cities, two days in Phong Nha is the perfect escape.


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